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Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2467A   CAS 0389-2467A; Belt
Category Accessories/Ornaments; Textiles
Object Name Belt
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data South Coast region, Yauca Valley
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Late Horizon: 1460-1534 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Camelid fiber
Description Wide belt with wide dark brown band along each outside edge that is woven as double-cloth fabric; Central striped design running length of belt is woven as double-faced cloth with a repeating design of small geometric units (mostly diamonds) in white and dark brown; One end of belt is woven entirely in plain tapestry technique with the central design changing to a series of alternating brown and white stripes; This belt is virtually identical in construction and design to CAS 0389-2459, -2467C, -2481, -2482, -2508, and -2542.
Dimensions (cm) Width = 10.0, Thickness = 0.9, Length = ca. 255.0

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2483   CAS 0389-2483; Belt
Category Accessories/Ornaments; Textiles
Object Name Belt
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data South Coast region, Yauca Valley
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Late Horizon: 1460-1534 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Width = 7.4, Thickness = 0.7, Length = 127.8

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2496   CAS 0389-2496; Belt
Category Accessories/Ornaments; Textiles
Object Name Belt
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data South Coast, Yauca Valley, probably
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Late Horizon: 1460-1534 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description Belt; Warp faced double cloth with complementary warp patterning with four strand oblique interlacing of the tie cords.
Dimensions (cm) Width = 9.8, Thickness = 0.3, Length = 12.8

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2501   CAS 0389-2501; Belt
Category Accessories/Ornaments; Textiles
Object Name Belt
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data South Coast region, Yauca Valley
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Late Horizon: 1460-1534 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Width = 9.5, Thickness = 0.3, Length = 116.3

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2572   CAS 0389-2572; Feather tassel
Category Accessories/Ornaments; Textiles
Object Name Feather tassel
Culture Nazca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data South Coast region, Ica Valley
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Early Intermediate to Late Horizon: 200 BCE - 1534 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Feathers; Plant fiber
Description
Dimensions (cm) Width = 17.0, Thickness = 1.2, Length = 26.0

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2480   CAS 0389-2480; Loincloth fragment
Category Accessories/Ornaments; Textiles
Object Name Loincloth fragment
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data North or Central Coast regions
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Late Intermediate: 800-1460 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Width = 54.0, Thickness = 0.4, Length = 40.7

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2594   CAS 0389-2594; Weaving basket
Category Basketry; Textiles
Object Name Weaving basket
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Height = 7.0, Width = 10.0, Length = 24.0

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2595   CAS 0389-2595; Weaving basket
Category Basketry; Textiles
Object Name Weaving basket
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Height = 7.0, Width = 10.0, Length = 24.0

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2596A   CAS 0389-2596A; Weaving basket
Category Basketry; Textiles
Object Name Weaving basket
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description Rectangular woven basket for holding weaving implements. Possible contents: CAS 0389-2596B-F.
Dimensions (cm) Height = 9.0, Width = 16.2, Length = 36.1

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2593   CAS 0389-2593; Weaving basket with tools and 3 textiles
Category Basketry; Textiles
Object Name Weaving basket with tools and 3 textiles
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Height = 7.0, Width = 10.0, Length = 24.0

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2458   CAS 0389-2458; Bag
Category Textiles
Object Name Bag
Culture Ica
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data Central or South Coast region
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Late Intermediate to Late Horizon: 800-1500s CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Cotton; Camelid fiber
Description Bag; Warp face plain weave.
Dimensions (cm) Width = 19.5, Thickness = 0.3, Length = 20.0

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2588   CAS 0389-2588; Bag
Category Textiles
Object Name Bag
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data Central or South Coast region
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Middle Horizon: 500-800 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Width = 9.9, Thickness = 0.4, Length = 7.9

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2547   CAS 0389-2547; Bag
Category Textiles
Object Name Bag
Culture Inca
Global Region South America
Country Peru
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data South Coast region, possibly Acari Valley
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture Late Horizon: 1460-1534 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials
Description
Dimensions (cm) Width = 24.7, Thickness = 0.7, Length = 26.8

Catalog Number CAS 0389-2539   CAS 0389-2539; Coptic textile fragment
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragment
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data unknown
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 500-600 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Linen; Wool
Description “Tunic fragments, yoke and shoulder ornaments. The pieces are extremely discolored. The original color scheme was undoubtedly white with purple figures accented in red. The purple has now turned dark brown. From the remains it can be determined that the tunic had a deep yoke with several horizontal bands. The principal band holds an arcade, really a series of aediculae, each occupied by a dancer, nude except for a floating scarf worn over the shoulders. Two bands above this contain lozenges, the band below it, a chain of trefoils. On either side of the yoke were clavi of which but one now remains. These contained two sizes of linked cartouches, the larger enclosing dancers similar to those in the yoke arcade, the smaller, busts. A second fragment of the same tunic has the remains of a square that may be from the shoulder area. It bears a geometric pattern of lozenges. The technique used is tapestry in wool and linen on paired linen warps. Open slits in the uppermost yoke band enhance the decorative effect of the ornamentation. All yarn is S-twist. Sixth century. Related example: Paris, Louvre inv. 4307 (Du Bourguet 1964, no. C 32). Remarks: Nude dancers as decorative motifs area a common feature in Coptic textiles, persisting even after the Muslim conquest. Nudity symbolizes spiritual purity when it appears in a religious context as may be the case here, indicated by the placement of the figures in an architectural context that suggests a side aisle of a church nave. [Regarding textiles in this group, DL Carroll # 27-40 (CAS 0389-2378, -2380, -2385, -2386, -2388, -2400, -2404, -2412, -2429, -2430, -2433, -2451, -2452, -2539, -2584, -2585):] By the sixth century two basic types of textile ornaments were used to decorate garments. One, which was in use before the fourth century, was essentially monochrome. Designs in the monochrome class were both non-representational and figurative - the latter included a wide range of subject matter: plant, animal, human, and mythological. The second type is polychrome. Polychrome textiles had been made earlier, but not for use as garments. Extant examples are thought to have been decorative hangings, woven pictures as it were, that are commonly called tapestries. The use of what are essentially miniature tapestries for embellishing clothing is believed to have begun in the sixth century and to have lasted well into the Muslim period.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 31, pp. 116, 120-123.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 39.7, Length = 46.6

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2579   CAS 0389-2579; Coptic textile fragment
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragment
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data unknown
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 900-1000 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Linen; Wool
Description “Belt (?) (sic) fragment. The design is organized as a continuous band with spiral-wave borders. The center is divided into alternate squares and rectangles, each containing an amoeba-like motif ornamented with X and O figures. Colors are yellow, red, medium green, and dark gray. The textile is a narrow tapestry weave with edge selvedges, one strongly reinforced with extra warp threads. The textile is made of wool and linen weft on linen warp, 9 x 39 [warp : weft per square cm]. All yarn is S-twist. Tenth century. Remarks: This piece would have been equally useful as a belt or as garment trimming. The one heavily reinforced edge would make the band suitable for edging a tunic neck. The design is, perhaps, derived from a floral motif of the type decorating the previous specimen [CAS 0389-2436], but considerably debased. [Regarding textiles in this group, DL Carroll # 41-72 (CAS 0389-2382, -2384, -2389, -2390, -2391, -2392, -2393, -2396, -2399, -2401, -2405, -2409, -2410, -2411, -2414, -2415, -2416, -2417, -2419, -2420, -2422, -2423, -2424, -2427, -2434, -2435, -2436, -2453, -2454, -2457, -2579, -2580, -2581, -2582, -2599):] After the Arab conquest in the mid-seventh century, Coptic textile design changed its character, moving ever more distant from its classical Roman and Greek sources. In part, this was a reaction against Byzantine culture, associated in the Coptic mind with oppression. Contributing to the change may have been Islamic prohibitions against depicting human and animal figures. Such figures when they appear in Coptic textiles of the later periods become increasingly abstract to the point of being virtually unrecognizable.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 47, pp. 136, 150-151.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 6.2, Length = 20.2

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2580   CAS 0389-2580; Coptic textile fragment
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragment
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data unknown
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 800-1000 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Linen; Wool
Description “Two fragments of a tunic clavus [CAS 0389-2580, 0389-2581]. The clavus decoration consists of rectangles with groups of dancers alternating with rectangles containing an elaborate, symmetrical flowering tree. The dancers are worked in beige, dark brown, tan, green, pink, and light blue on a medium red ground. The tree is worked in the same colors but on a tan ground. Both rectangles have dark blue borders edged with spiral waves for the dancers’ panels, ornamented with linked cartouches for the tree panels. The weave is tapestry, wool and linen weft on linen warp, 8 x 64 [warp : weft per square cm]. The clavus appears to have been assembled by cutting a banded, tapestry-woven textile into rectangles and sewing sections from different bands together to provide ornamentation for a tunic. All yarn is S-twist. Ninth or tenth century. Related example: Baginski and Tidhar 1980:141, no. 214. Remarks: The dumpy little figures are barely recognizable as human forms. Their drawing contrasts greatly with that of the elaborate, symmetrical plants associated with them. At work here is the turning away from Classical canons that started around the time of the Arab conquest as a reaction against nearly everything Byzantine. [Regarding textiles in this group, DL Carroll # 41-72 (CAS 0389-2382, -2384, -2389, -2390, -2391, -2392, -2393, -2396, -2399, -2401, -2405, -2409, -2410, -2411, -2414, -2415, -2416, -2417, -2419, -2420, -2422, -2423, -2424, -2427, -2434, -2435, -2436, -2453, -2454, -2457, -2579, -2580, -2581, -2582, -2599):] After the Arab conquest in the mid-seventh century, Coptic textile design changed its character, moving ever more distant from its classical Roman and Greek sources. In part, this was a reaction against Byzantine culture, associated in the Coptic mind with oppression. Contributing to the change may have been Islamic prohibitions against depicting human and animal figures. Such figures when they appear in Coptic textiles of the later periods become increasingly abstract to the point of being virtually unrecognizable.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 60B, pp. 136, 168-169.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 5.9, Length = 17.9

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2581   CAS 0389-2581; Coptic textile fragment
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragment
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data unknown
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 800-1000 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Linen; Wool
Description “Two fragments of a tunic clavus [CAS 0389-2580, 0389-2581]. The clavus decoration consists of rectangles with groups of dancers alternating with rectangles containing an elaborate, symmetrical flowering tree. The dancers are worked in beige, dark brown, tan, green, pink, and light blue on a medium red ground. The tree is worked in the same colors but on a tan ground. Both rectangles have dark blue borders edged with spiral waves for the dancers’ panels, ornamented with linked cartouches for the tree panels. The weave is tapestry, wool and linen weft on linen warp, 8 x 64 [warp : weft per square cm]. The clavus appears to have been assembled by cutting a banded, tapestry-woven textile into rectangles and sewing sections from different bands together to provide ornamentation for a tunic. All yarn is S-twist. Ninth or tenth century. Related example: Baginski and Tidhar 1980:141, no. 214. Remarks: The dumpy little figures are barely recognizable as human forms. Their drawing contrasts greatly with that of the elaborate, symmetrical plants associated with them. At work here is the turning away from Classical canons that started around the time of the Arab conquest as a reaction against nearly everything Byzantine. [Regarding textiles in this group, DL Carroll # 41-72 (CAS 0389-2382, -2384, -2389, -2390, -2391, -2392, -2393, -2396, -2399, -2401, -2405, -2409, -2410, -2411, -2414, -2415, -2416, -2417, -2419, -2420, -2422, -2423, -2424, -2427, -2434, -2435, -2436, -2453, -2454, -2457, -2579, -2580, -2581, -2582, -2599):] After the Arab conquest in the mid-seventh century, Coptic textile design changed its character, moving ever more distant from its classical Roman and Greek sources. In part, this was a reaction against Byzantine culture, associated in the Coptic mind with oppression. Contributing to the change may have been Islamic prohibitions against depicting human and animal figures. Such figures when they appear in Coptic textiles of the later periods become increasingly abstract to the point of being virtually unrecognizable.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 60A, pp. 136, 168-169, 184.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 6.6, Length = 26.5

Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2582   CAS 0389-2582; Coptic textile fragment
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragment
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data unknown
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 1000-1200 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Wool
Description “Mantle or coverlet fragment. The design is organized into bands, decorated ones interspersed with plain ones. Two bands contain quatrefoils with leaf motifs filling the triangular spaces between the quatrefoils. The third band is half as wide as the other two and is decorated with triangles and leaves. It is in fact a repeat of half the design of the other two bands divided down the center. Tapestry, woven entirely in wool, 9 x 22 [warp : weft per square cm]. One edge is corded. All yarn is S-twist. Eleventh or twelfth century. Remarks: This piece may be Islamic in origin, though not too different, technically, from Coptic work. [Regarding textiles in this group, DL Carroll # 41-72 (CAS 0389-2382, -2384, -2389, -2390, -2391, -2392, -2393, -2396, -2399, -2401, -2405, -2409, -2410, -2411, -2414, -2415, -2416, -2417, -2419, -2420, -2422, -2423, -2424, -2427, -2434, -2435, -2436, -2453, -2454, -2457, -2579, -2580, -2581, -2582, -2599):] After the Arab conquest in the mid-seventh century, Coptic textile design changed its character, moving ever more distant from its classical Roman and Greek sources. In part, this was a reaction against Byzantine culture, associated in the Coptic mind with oppression. Contributing to the change may have been Islamic prohibitions against depicting human and animal figures. Such figures when they appear in Coptic textiles of the later periods become increasingly abstract to the point of being virtually unrecognizable.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 71, pp. 136, 182-183.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 22.8, Length = 89.1

Catalog Number CAS 0389-2583   CAS 0389-2583; Coptic textile fragment
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragment
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data unknown
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 400-535 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Linen; Wool
Description “Pallium fragment. The fragment has a tan ground and a large, purplish black roundel. The roundel has a border of small circles separated by pairs of smaller circles. Its center is filled by regularly spaced clusters of nine dots each. The entire fragment is weft loop pile carried out in linen and wool, 20 x 11 [warp : weft per square cm], on a linen warp. Every fourth shot in the area of the motif is a weft bundle. Dyed wool threads added to the motif area form the colored pile. Every seventh and eighth shot is a weft bundle but only the eighth shot provides pile. The pile was formed by looping sections of the weft around a smooth rod. The size of the rod was determined by the depth of pile desired. The pile surface of [this specimen] is velvet-like in areas with wool weft, rougher, like bath-toweling (sic), in the all-linen portion. All yarn is S-twist. Fifth or early sixth century. Remarks: As mentioned [in other descriptions], white pallia with large purple medallions were worn by dignitaries of church and state in the fifth and sixth centuries. Wear marks on this example indicate that it may have been worn inside-out, perhaps after having been discarded by the original, distinguished owner, or used as a chair or couch cover. The technique for weaving a textile with a pile surface evolved in Dynastic Egypt. Riefstahl [1941 or 1944] cites an eleventh-dynasty example found at Deir el-Bahri (1944:17, fig. 19), which already shows a perfect grasp of the method. The technique is an important one for the region. See Bellinger (1956). The textiles in this group [DL Carroll # 1-16 (CAS 0389-2375, -2376, -2377, -2394, -2397, -2398, -2402, -2403, -2406, -2407, -2413, -2421, -2425, -2426, -2583, -2586)] are the earliest in the collection and belong to the period dominated by Rome. A number of them represent types of garments that could have indicated social rank or would have been appropriate wear for persons with high positions in the extensive bureaucracy of the period.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 11, pp. 82, 96-97.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 59.0, Length = 55.1

Catalog Number CAS 0389-2584   CAS 0389-2584; Coptic textile fragment
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragment
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data unknown
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 500-700 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Linen; Wool
Description “Garment ornament. The form is a roundel. In the center is a representation of a mermaid holding a conch shell and being accompanied by a fish. The border is a stair-step jewel inlay design. The colors are light brown, cream, black, dark yellow, dull red, dull light green, and dull medium green. The weave is tapestry, wool and linen [S-twist] weft on two-ply Z-twist linen warp. Sixth or seventh century. Remarks: Representations of mermaid have a long history in ancient Mediterranean and Near Eastern art. As symbols of belief, their significance is not clear, especially in Christian contexts. The stair-step border design is not particularly suitable for a woven roundel and may be derived from another form of art entirely. Stair-step inlays occur in gold and garnet jewelry of the fifth and sixth centuries, a fact that suggests a metalwork source for the motif. [Regarding textiles in this group, DL Carroll # 27-40 (CAS 0389-2378, -2380, -2385, -2386, -2388, -2400, -2404, -2412, -2429, -2430, -2433, -2451, -2452, -2539, -2584, -2585):] By the sixth century two basic types of textile ornaments were used to decorate garments. One, which was in use before the fourth century, was essentially monochrome. Designs in the monochrome class were both non-representational and figurative - the latter included a wide range of subject matter: plant, animal, human, and mythological. The second type is polychrome. Polychrome textiles had been made earlier, but not for use as garments. Extant examples are thought to have been decorative hangings, woven pictures as it were, that are commonly called tapestries. The use of what are essentially miniature tapestries for embellishing clothing is believed to have begun in the sixth century and to have lasted well into the Muslim period.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 40, pp. 116, 134; color plate, p. 74.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 7.4, Length = 8.7
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